This story is a personal favourite of mine (originally published December 2022), so I’ve decided to re-release it with a more in-depth account of the experience. I felt the original didn’t quite capture the magic of that afternoon, so I’ve reworked the narrative to bring you closer to the fells with me.
Teaser: Image of the trip – a simply spectacular view of the Scafell Massif from the summit of Pillar in the Lake District during one of the best winter sunsets I have ever experienced.
My Annual Lake District Christmas Tradition
I honestly love the time of year when it’s acceptable for the Christmas festivities to begin; for most of us, it’s a welcome chance to wind down after a busy year. Every December, usually a week before Christmas, I pick a mountain in the Lake District, throw on my Christmas Jumper and a festive hat and venture off for a festive hike. I’m not even sure exactly when I started it, but it has become somewhat of an annual tradition now, one I look forward to every year.
This year, I chose a mountain very close to my heart. One I’ve summited many times, but never quite managed to catch that elusive dream sunset. Its dominant form proudly stands guard over Mosedale Valley and Wasdale. Standing at 892m, it’s the eighth-highest mountain in the Lake District. Can you guess what it is yet? The almighty Pillar! A lesser popular fell when tackled from Wasdale, but a true gem for landscape photography.
Wasdale, the Lake District’s Answer to Heaven on Earth
Driving into Wasdale never fails to take your breath away. Its beauty can’t be described in words; it can only be shown through emotion. You have to experience it to believe it. Goosebumps, an overwhelming feeling of peace and awe at the sheer scale of the mountainous landscape. If heaven were a place on earth, it would probably be Wasdale. It’s easy to see why photographers and hikers alike cherish this special place.
Sorry, I’ve digressed a little – back to the story. I drove along Wastwater, England’s deepest lake, surrounded by some of the Lake District’s most iconic fells – Yewbarrow, Illgill Head, Great Gable, Kirk Fell, the Scafells, and many more. My destination was the car park at Wasdale Head, and the start of my Christmas hike/landscape photography adventure to the summit of Pillar. The weather was perfect, chilly with a biting northerly wind, but other than that, it was the dream forecast for an afternoon of landscape photography.
My route was straightforward, from Wasdale Head, I’d head to the Wasdale Head Inn and take the path towards Mosedale Valley. From there, it’s a long, arduous walk to Gatherstone Beck and onwards to Blacksail Pass before pressing on to the summit of Pillar. Completing the round trip is around 12km. It’s not a difficult trail in terms of technical skill, but it is a taxing one – you will definitely feel it on the way back down. It pays to consider your gear selection for the trip.
What I Packed for the Hike
Keeping my backpack weight down was my primary goal; I didn’t need to take the kitchen sink with me. As a mostly solo hiker and photographer, I will never sacrifice my safety gear and emergency clothing. However, camera equipment is a luxury on a hike like this, and so I made sure to take only what I needed. Here’s a list of everything I packed for the trip.
- Osprey Stratos 36L backpack
- Petzl Swift headtorch*
- First aid kit*
- Emergency foil blanket*
- OS map and compass (emergency navigation aid)*
- Spare clothing and waterproof outer shells
- High energy snacks (honey roasted peanuts and Haribo – starmix of course!)
- 1L sports bottle with water & electrolytes (SiS cherry tablet)
- Camera body: Canon EOS 5D Mark 4
- Lens: Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
- Lens: Canon EF 70-200mm F4L USM
- Lowepro Toploader TLZ 45
- Spare battery
- Microfiber cloth
- Carbon Fibre Tripod
Items marked with an asterisk are essentials that I take on every photography adventure.
Summit in Sight, the Photography Adventure Begins
After powering through the ascent, spurred on by the thought of the heavenly views back down Mosedale Valley, I stopped for a break near the summit. It was a chance to slow down and truly admire the familiar view. With the sun lowering, the light became increasingly golden as sunset approached. In that moment, I knew that this trip was going to be one to remember.
Yewbarrow’s curves and diffused sunset light
With the golden light raking across Wast Water and caressing the surrounding fells, I was immediately drawn to my first composition of the afternoon. Yewbarrow was the hero, its near flanks in full shadow creating a surreal contrast with the light in the distance. The curves, the subtle haze in the far distance towards Coniston and beyond. I won’t say anymore, I’ll let the image do the rest of the talking. What a way to start!
Image technical details:
- Lens: Canon EF 70-200mm F4L
- Focal length: 98mm
- ISO: 100
- Aperture: f/11
- Shutter speed: 1/50th (tripod mounted)
Tagging Pillar’s Trig Point
After the success of my first capture, I packed the camera away and pressed on to the summit of Pillar. It’s customary to give the trig point a good tap; in fact, I’m pretty sure it’s the law.
It was nice to be back at the summit – easily one of my favourite views in the Lake District. From the summit, you have stunning 360-degree vista views, provided you catch a good forecast. I can’t tell you how many times I have summited only to be met by a wall of clouds. Thankfully, this trip wasn’t like the others; this was the making of something special. As sunset approached, the light began to put on a real show; it was time to make a decision. I had to knuckle down and find a composition that effortlessly captured the beauty of the afternoon.
Sunset Over the Scafell Massif
I decided to descend from the summit a little. The iconic view along Mosedale Valley was looking too good to ignore. It’s a well-known statement in landscape photography: never forget to look back. This was one of those moments. By this point, the light was flooding through Wasdale Head, illuminating the Scafell Massif and beyond, whilst Mosedale Valley lingered in deep shadow. I’m honestly sitting here struggling to put the experience into words. It was one of those moments in landscape photography where everything falls into place – near perfection, and it doesn’t happen often.
Compositionally, the scene presented itself; all I had to do was fire the shutter. The winding beck along Mosedale Valley, deep in shadow, leading your eye through to the most surreal light, perfectly balanced with hazy mountainous layers in the distance. Without a doubt, one of my best experiences as a landscape photographer. I fired off a couple of shots at various exposures, just to be sure I captured the scene perfectly, before setting down my camera to watch as the sun set in the distance. Here’s the final image, and it’s quite an emotional one at that!
Image technical details:
- Lens: Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
- Focal length: 70mm
- ISO: 100
- Aperture: f/8.0
- Shutter speed: 1/125th (hand-held)
Returning to the Car Under a Crisp Night Sky
Needless to say, I returned to the car with a stride in my step. My soul was content and my mind was blown. The descent was equally as spectacular. Under the clearing sky, the moonlight was so bright that I didn’t need my headtorch. Nearing the car, my legs were pretty much jelly – but that didn’t matter. I’d enjoyed one of my best hikes ever, and all whilst wearing a Christmas jumper and a Santa hat.
Experiences like this remind me just how much it pays to keep calm when good conditions come your way. Rather than panicking over compositions, I approached the afternoon with a level head and walked away with some of my best work. It’s also important to enjoy the experience and live in the moment. I could have run around like a headless chicken, taking photographs from all angles. Instead, I captured a couple of images with meaning, set my camera down and admired the remainder of the sunset with my own two eyes. It doesn’t always pan out this way, but when it does, it’s rude not to seize the opportunity.
Related Posts
If these picturesque winter views from Pillar have inspired you, you may enjoy my journeys to Bowfell and Loughrigg Fell as well. Both feature invaluable insights and moments of seasonal beauty that stay with you long after you’ve left the fells.